After the weekend I drove to the National Museum of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, in Riyadh. The huge modern complex in the center of the city is a proud display of the Bedu culture and the rich history of Saudi Arabia. It took me a while to find the office where I had to apply for the two day permit for the Mada'in Saleh site. At first they were reluctant to issue the permit, as it is very uncommon for an individual to come up there and apply for it. Saudi Arabia is not accustomed to tourism. The limited form of tourism they know is strictly group organised and easy to control. Independent travellers (or tourists) are a very rare sight in the Kingdom. Luckily for me they considered it a great plan that I was riding a bike from Qatar to Belgium (although somebody did ask me:" Why didn't you just catch a plane?") and would have my permit ready by early afternoon.
Ins'Allah.
I wondered around the empty museum for an hour of two, overwhelmed by the complicated history of the country and the large collection or art and artefacts on display. The grounds of the museum are empty four days a week, only to fill up with families from Wednesday (around dusk) to Friday, when entire families sit in the buzzing shade and a trillion kids play around the parc, surrounding the museum. The museum howevers stays deserted for most of the time.
In order to clear my head, I set off to get lost in the old part of town and the busy real-life soucq streets. Narrow dusty streets, small shops selling cheap imported chinese goods, tiny juice bars, old cars...Riyadh doesn't differ that much from Doha. I remembered the first time I arrived in Doha, two years before. Back then it was a totally new world, so different from what I was used to. Strolling through Riyadh, I realized that I had become a bit indifferent to the surroundings I was in. The old (authentic) parts of most Middle Eastern towns are more or less alike. You find yourself in narrow streets in between major traffic boulevards. Houses look worn down, streets are patched up and ill maintained, dirt lingers around everywhere. Because of the fierce midday temperatures you will find yourself mostly alone in the streets. Every so often the narrow streets will give onto a deserted sandy square, which will only come alive at dusk, after the 'Magrib' (sunset) prayer. Then men will appear for a sheesha and a cup of tea, discussing whatever it is that Arabian man endlessy seem to discuss. Indian immigrants will flock togheter and exchange news from home, catch up on gossip or exchange latest possibilities for a new, maybe better job. Women are rarely seen, after all they are still confined to the other side of the walls, surrounding the square.
In order to clear my head, I set off to get lost in the old part of town and the busy real-life soucq streets. Narrow dusty streets, small shops selling cheap imported chinese goods, tiny juice bars, old cars...Riyadh doesn't differ that much from Doha. I remembered the first time I arrived in Doha, two years before. Back then it was a totally new world, so different from what I was used to. Strolling through Riyadh, I realized that I had become a bit indifferent to the surroundings I was in. The old (authentic) parts of most Middle Eastern towns are more or less alike. You find yourself in narrow streets in between major traffic boulevards. Houses look worn down, streets are patched up and ill maintained, dirt lingers around everywhere. Because of the fierce midday temperatures you will find yourself mostly alone in the streets. Every so often the narrow streets will give onto a deserted sandy square, which will only come alive at dusk, after the 'Magrib' (sunset) prayer. Then men will appear for a sheesha and a cup of tea, discussing whatever it is that Arabian man endlessy seem to discuss. Indian immigrants will flock togheter and exchange news from home, catch up on gossip or exchange latest possibilities for a new, maybe better job. Women are rarely seen, after all they are still confined to the other side of the walls, surrounding the square.
Around one o'clock I got my permit. Luckily I checked it, as they managed to issue it for the wrong dates, which was hastily fixed. My last afternoon in Riyadh I spend reading lazily and preparing my trip to Egypt.
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